The traditional cultures of the Mekong peoples live on through their costumes, textiles, jewellery and music. Among tribes people especially, craft remains a strong element of village life.

However, the ravages of war and oppression have done their part to erode the strength of local traditions on a wider scale, and daily life in all parts of the Mekong is of course continually being reshaped by gradual modernization, and the subsequent popularity of satellite television. On a different level, the farming of opium has led to a growing number of opium addicts among young men.

“Many tribes have been changing because of tourism. I think there is even confusion among visitors about how to approach them. Some tribes say they want to be modern – “we want to be like you”. Many young tribes people are exposed to urban life and want to be part of it. Another time, in China, I was sitting in a very small hut with Yi people – the mother was dressed in full traditional gear, while her son sat in a dirty suitjacket, with a look of dissatisfaction on his face. In many places, smaller communities have often been sidelined by development.

And then there are tribes people who have benefited - I visited the Akha tribe in Tachileik and they had big motorcycles and houses with video and television, and posters of film stars.. Then again some tribes further up in the hills, like the Jino are still quite proud of their customary way of life. I went with them to gather wild vegetables – the tribe’s chief explained to me their naturalist philosophy: “Food from plants is medicine. Medicine is food from plants”.”